Petroglyphs of the Panche Tragedy and a Magical Oak Wood – A Bogotá Daytrip to Quininí

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The sacred mountain of Quniní, petroglyphs from the Panche people who'd commit collective suicide rather than succumb to the Spaniards, their habits of abducting pregnant women from other tribes, a magical oakwood and pouring rain. All this made for quite a dramatic hike in the surroundings of Tibacuy, two hours from Bogotá. Along the first part of…

Quebrada la Vieja – Beautiful páramo two hours walk from Bogotá

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This chaos of somewhere between 9 and 12 million people, no functioning public transport system, worst air quality in South America and a constant traffic noise that drives me crazy... It kind of makes anyone need a break. I usually spend most Friday afternoons persuading and insisting on us making a weekend or Sunday trip…

Can’t Believe this is Just a 40 Minutes Walk from Central Bogotá

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Can there actually exist an accessible forest trail, surrounded by dense green vegetation, birds singing and even a waterfall to swim in, only a short walk from central Bogotá? At 8am on a Sunday morning, my friends and I decided to find out. We walked up the calle 63 in Chapinero to the Universidad Politécnico. And just after the university…

Salento – A Commercial Gem in the Colombian Coffee Region

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Commercial and touristic, but still a gem. Hidden in a green valley near Pereira in the Colombian coffee district, Salento makes for a relaxed weekend with pool playing, reading in the hammock and a day hike in the Cocora valley. It is indeed way too crowded in Salento during a Colombian "puente", the long weekends when a…

Valle de Cocora – Valley of the Giant Palm Trees

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The Quindío wax palm with its impressive 60 meters, is the national tree and official symbol of Colombia. We took a weekend to visit Salento and the Cocora valley, in the Colombian coffee district, where the majority of the protected wax palms are found. We took a jeep from Salento at 8 am and started our walk…

The Tongue of the Troll – hiking in Norway

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I've travelled to the southernmost tip of Chile and I've seen Swedes going all the way to New Zealand to explore places like this. Then it turns out that for the 20 years that I lived in Sweden, I had these stunning view just next doors. The next stop on our roadtrip was Trolltunga, the tongue of the troll,…

Cartagena the City of Contrasts

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Cartagena as we're used to seeing it portrayed, lovely, colourful and picturesque. It is lovely. But Cartagena is also a heavily corrupt and unequal place, with heaps of garbage and abandoned public construction work as soon as you leave Old Town. You can always stay inside the bubble, but you'll miss more than half of Cartagena. So get prepared…

Waterfalls, snowy mountains and the Hardangerfjord

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Our Norwegian roadtrip finally took us to our first fjord, a curly part of the Hardangerfjord, named Eidfjord. I sat down in the warming sunshine and admired the waterfall Vöringsfossen. Vöringsfossen. Continuing down by the fjord along the most terrifying narrow curvy roads ever seen in northern Europe. We were finally able to make a stop where…

Raggsteindalen where the wrong trail becomes the right trail

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The Norwegian roadtrip continues. We had set our eyes on these mountains, north of Geilo and part of Hallingskarvet National Park. A narrow gravel road took us to a god-forgotten valley named Raggsteindalen from where we decided to hike during the afternoon to Lordehytta, an old shelter on top of the mountain. Our idea was to sleep…

Hallingskarvet Nationalpark somewhere in the clouds

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The morning for our first day-tour in Hallingskarvet National Park seemed promising, when I stepped out of the tent. It had rained during the night and the clouds seemed to be blowing away. We had set our eyes on this mountain, Prestholtsskaret, from where the view of Hardangervidda and Hallingskarvet National Parks is said to…