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This story is all about waterfalls. Warm waterfalls that you can bathe in. Numbers of them. And the greenest mountains you could ever imagine. This is as Colombia as it can be. We made a three-days roadtrip that took us some six hours from Bogotá into the green.

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The village, surrounded by green. I won’t tell its name just yet. But it is in the beautiful, green and warm region of Santander, Colombia.

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From the village, we took the colonial trail camino real.

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If you ask what Colombias is to me, it is the colour green. Endless emerald green mountains that turn blue in the distance.

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Of course we went on about how we wanted to buy every house we saw.

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And there it was, the first waterfall with natural jacuzzis to swim in.

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We came on a public holiday and were too lazy to get up early, so we shared the place with a lot of people. But they were all happy people who really enjoyed the Sunday sun, so it didn’t matter much to us. However, if you want the place to yourself, just visit on a week day.

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The only way to walk safely on the slippery rocks is in socks.

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The rock at the bottom of the pozo gives an idea of how these holes have been created over the centuries.

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We agreed that the best thing of it all was the house of the old couple Candelaria and Domingo and their big family. Inez, José and Armando with children were all home for the public holiday and they showed us the caves and waterfalls on their land.

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And we spent god knows how many hours drinking beer in the shade with the family and a few other visitors who had heard of Casa de Candelaria.

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There were hundreds of orange and mandarine trees and we were allowed to pick some.

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José took us on the most claustrophobic adventure of the whole trip.

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There are two options. Either you just walk into the cave and out again. But as it happened, this was not only a cave but a cavern. That is, it had a terribly narrow exit on the other side.

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It meant getting into a darkness that just became narrower and lower with each step.

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The last part we had to swim in a very muddy water.

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It was a relief to wash off the mud in a warm waterfall afterwards.

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If you’re a meat-eater and visit Santander, don’t miss the carne semioreada. Salted meat that is hung to dry in the sun for a day before it its grilled in thin pieces.

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As if we hadn’t had enough of swimmable waterfalls, there was one more with pozos, similar to the first one but with less people.

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We stayed until it got almost dark.

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And then we headed to yet another small waterfall with an access easy enough to be reached even in the complete darkness. Except for the camera flash, it was completely dark.

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On our last day we returned to the same place in the day. We were quite surprised with what it actually looked like in daylight.

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I’ve been terribly ambivalent of whether to publish this post on the blog. All the people we met were happy with the visitors that they receive, but don’t want more people to come and deteriorate their beautiful village and rivers. But I just cannot help sharing these pictures with you. So I’ll leave this here, and if you’re curious enough you’ll probably browse the internet and find the names of the places, or just write to me and I’ll tell you more.

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